Foto: The Emerald Lakes during the Tongariro Tracking (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
New Zealand - At exactly 7:30, we drive onto the grassy field. Several people are already waiting for the 8:00 a.m. bus. It's another 25 minutes by road to the starting point. On the way, the driver tells us that it’s cloudy today and that wind gusts of up to 100 km/h can occur at the top near the Red Crater. Because of the wind, the perceived temperature can feel around or even below freezing. “Be careful,” he says as I get off. The first kilometer of the path ascends gradually. It's not too difficult yet. The route is perfectly marked, and every two to three kilometers there are sanitary facilities. At Soda Springs, after four kilometers of walking, there's another warning: do you have enough clothing, is the weather good, and are you physically fit? If not, consider turning back. The same warning hangs in the toilet. Up to this point it’s been easy, but now the steep section begins. Only continue if you’re absolutely sure. What lies ahead? After Soda Springs, the route becomes steeper. As I climb higher, the cloud cover increases. I’m walking in the clouds. I estimate visibility at barely fifty meters. The hikers ahead of me quickly disappear like shadows on the mountain. The clouds also block the view of Mount Ngauruhoe, the volcano used as Mount Doom in the film The Lord of the Rings. A pity. All I see is an information board about the area around the volcano. The wind picks up. I occasionally have to brace myself to avoid being blown over. I suspect there are steep drop-offs on either side of the path, but the mist hides them. I keep climbing. The cutting wind makes it cold. Some hikers probably regret choosing to wear shorts. I had briefly considered it but wisely decided against it. I reach the summit of the Tongariro volcano. I must have passed the Red Crater to my right. Ahead should be the Emerald Lakes, three alpine lakes formed after the 1926 eruption of the Tongariro volcano. Will I get to see them? The descent is more dramatic. Because of the loose volcanic gravel and the strong wind gusts, hikers frequently fall. I try to stay upright along the ridge. Suddenly the clouds lift. Below, I see one of the Emerald Lakes. A collective ohhh rises from the hikers on the mountain. I quickly grab my camera—who knows how long the view will last. It seems to clear up a bit more, and for a brief moment, I see all three lakes. The sun even peeks through. At the lakes, I sit on a rock and unpack my lunch. It’s a shame about the view of Mount Doom, but the sight of the Emerald Lakes more than makes up for it. I can now see the entire trail into the valley toward the Blue Lake. The summit of the Tongariro volcano is at 1,900 meters. The endpoint lies at 700 meters. That means we still have several hours of descending ahead.
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Queenstown
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