Foto: The caravanserai in Diyarbakir (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
Turkey - I visit the Nebi Camii Mosque. The mosque is built of layers of white and black stone, a style characteristic of Diyarbakır. I ask an older man if I may go inside. He nods affirmatively. The small mosque has a beautiful old appearance. Back outside, I follow my route along the city wall to the citadel. Just through the gate, I climb the wall. From the ten-meter-high city wall, I have a view over the citadel and the old town. I see children playing in a pool at the foot of the wall. They gesture for me to take a photo as they jump into the water. Many houses within the city walls are damaged or being demolished. Was this damage caused by an earthquake, or is it urban renewal? While walking on the wall, it starts to drizzle. I also hear thunder in the distance. Soon, it rains heavily. I quickly return to the city gate to take shelter. The layout of Diyarbakır is actually very simple: a walled center with a gate in every cardinal direction. Two main roads run from east to west and north to south. At the intersection of these roads, I turn left, toward the Behram Pasa Mosque. Unfortunately, this mosque is scaffolded. Through the narrow streets of the bazaar, I reach the Hasan Pasa Hani caravanserai, a charming restored caravanserai with many carpet sellers and cafés. After lunch, I search for the Keldani Church. Just before this Christian church, I pass the four-legged minaret. This minaret of the Seyh Mutahhar Mosque stands on four small pillars, each two meters high. I walk under the minaret to the mosque. The mosque is simply furnished but very atmospheric. Outside again, a group of Turkish youths passes by. They want to take a photo with me. No problem, of course, though I am still surprised. They turn into the same side street. The church gate is closed. I have already given up hope, but they knock on the door. It is opened, and together we visit the church. It turns out it is not the Keldani Church. That church is just behind this one. I walk around the corner to the Keldani Church. Here too, the gate is closed. I use the door knocker and am let inside. The Keldani is a cozy Roman Catholic church. Finally, I visit the Maryem Ana Kilisesi (Holy Mary Church), a Syrian Orthodox church in the southwest of the old city. The caretaker, Josef, lets me in. In the church, he tells me that the displayed Quran was printed in the Netherlands. He reads a passage from the holy book. As a bonus, he opens the door to the adjacent Jacob Church with three old altars. In gratitude for a small donation, Josef insists on offering a cup of tea. I drink my tea under the gazebo in the church garden. To conclude my tour of Diyarbakır, I walk along a restored section of the city wall. At the south gate, I descend again.
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