Cuba - Characteristic Trinidad
Foto: The Saint George Rock Church in Lalibela (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
Ethiopia - Lalibela is famous for its eleven rock-hewn churches, carved from stone by order of King Lalibela. He intended these churches to be a representation of Jerusalem. The churches are grouped into two clusters. Today, I am visiting the first group. First, Asschef shows me the small museum. Compared to the museum in Axum yesterday, this one offers little new. The collection also deserves a better presentation—the display cases come across as rather messy. Asschef notices that my interest is waning and thankfully keeps the pace up. Behind the museum, I see the site of the rock churches. Two enormous canopies mark the location. These covers were installed by UNESCO to protect the churches from the elements. However, the support pillars are placed right next to the churches, which takes away much of their charm. I descend to the Bet Medhane Alem church, the first rock-hewn church. Asschef explains that this is the largest church in Lalibela. The church has a total of 72 pillars—a sacred number, he says. The church stands about fifteen meters high and is entirely carved out of the surrounding mountain. It’s impressive how all the intricate details have been crafted. Inside, too, the church is completely carved from stone. I take off my shoes before entering. Since there are fleas inside the churches, I spray my socks with anti-flea spray. The inside of the church is perhaps even more remarkable. A small amount of sunlight shines through the carved windows onto the red carpet. I walk between the wide stone pillars and examine the frescoes on the eastern side of the church. All churches face east, Asschef tells me—that's where the sun rises. Directly behind this church are three others next to each other: two smaller ones carved into the rock on either side, and a freestanding church in the middle—the Bet Maryam church. I take off my shoes again and step inside. Mulu watches over my shoes outside to make sure they don’t get taken. She also ensures my shoes are waiting for me on the other side when I exit the church, and helps me put my sandals back on. She’s very helpful. After just one visit, she already knows exactly which shoes are mine. I wander through the narrow passageways between the churches. What an extraordinary place to walk through. I’m deeply impressed by the beauty of it all. After visiting all six churches, I walk a short distance through the village to the only freestanding rock-hewn church—the Church of Saint George, which is also the most famous one. The cross-shaped church is often featured in travel guides. To my relief, this church is not covered by a canopy, allowing the underground rock church to stand out beautifully against the landscape. It’s truly a stunning sight. I descend a narrow staircase into the 15-meter-deep pit to enter the church. Inside, the Saint George church is relatively small and simply designed.
Fasil Ghebbi fort of Emperor Fasilides
Ethiopia - Until 1855, Gondar was the capital of Ethiopia. Emperor Fasiladas had his palace built within the walled Fasil Ghebbi. He broke with the tradition of emperors wandering nomadically through the empire. His son, after taking power, had a second palace built ...
Gelada baboons in the Simien Mountains
Ethiopia - In the afternoon, I go to the Semien Mountains for a nature walk. For this, the guide Ababa accompanies me. She explains that the nature park has the highest mountains in Ethiopia. The highest peak is over four thousand meters. For safety, two armed soldiers ...
The Stelae of Axum
Ethiopia - Back in the center of Axum, Mook shows me the stelae. Tall pillars that served as grave monuments. The tallest stele is 24 meters high. There once was a stele of 33 meters, but it fell down. You can walk under the rubble. I am amazed by the colossal blocks ...
The tribes of Southern Ethiopia
Ethiopia - Makonnen enters the bus. A young man just thirty years old with large rasta dreadlocks. A striking appearance. He is the leader of the Dorze village. He accompanies us to Chencha for the weekly market. Chencha is another seven kilometers further. When ...