New Zealand - Thermal Wonderland Wai-O-Tapu
Foto: The Wakhan Valley on the border with Afghanistan (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
Tajikistan - At breakfast, I meet two boys from Hong Kong. They are traveling by hitchhiking and public transport from Hong Kong to Uzbekistan. On the Pamir Highway, everyone has their own travel adventure. In the center of the village, we fill up with water and continue along the border with Afghanistan. First, we encounter the Khakha Fort. Its ruins date back to the third century. Today, it is a military area. When we try to approach the fort, a soldier whistles from the top of the rocks and makes a cross with his hands—entry is forbidden. On the way back, a father is photographing his two sons in front of our car, which makes me laugh. The road between Ishkamhim and Langar was said to be the worst stretch of the Pamir Highway. However, it has asphalt, probably recently laid, and in reasonably good condition. Along the way, we hear the exhaust again—not a good sign. The clamp the mechanic found earlier in the week is slightly too large and does not hold properly. We jack up the car and push the exhaust back into place while a few boys watch curiously. After the repair, we drive up a side road to Yamchun Fort. The road climbs steeply, gaining about fifty meters at each bend. Just past the fort lies the Bibi Fatima hotspring. We visit the men’s bath. When we attempt to put on our swimsuits, gestures and Russian indicate it is unnecessary. The hot water seeps down the rocks. The men in the small pool laugh at how hot I find the water. A man crawls out of a small rock niche, and I am invited to join him. I decline due to my size. Nearby, a local restaurant girl greets us in perfect English and offers food. She studied in Dushanbe but returned because her family lives here. On the way back, we stop at Yamchun Fort, a 12th-century fort 500 meters above the valley with a fabulous view. We continue through the valley, where the road is mostly well-prepared, and in Vrang we encounter a Dutch Volkswagen van. Its owners, Reinier and Anna, are traveling for two months and invite us for coffee. Vrang is past Yang, where we had planned to stay. An ancient 3rd-century Buddhist stupa is located nearby. A short walk shows the pyramidal stupa, indicating the historical importance of the Wakhan Valley. Higher up, we see monks’ cave dwellings. It is still early afternoon, so we drive on to Langar, which was originally scheduled for tomorrow night. Two hours later, we arrive.
Amir Ismail Samani in Dushanbe
Tajikistan - I enter Tajikistan. The road is surprisingly good — no potholes or bumps, and there are even streetlights here and there. I hadn’t expected this in Tajikistan. I drive into Dushanbe. At the central square, we stop briefly to figure out how to get ...
The Pamir Highway
Tajikistan - After loading the car again, we drive along a cart track to Lake Yashilkul. This lake was formed by a landslide. Its clear blue water contrasts beautifully with the surrounding mountains. A smaller lake, Bulunkul, also looks magnificent. The snow-capped ...