Foto: The Registan square (bron: Ronald van der Veer)

Uzbekistan - When I arrive at Registan Square, it’s already busy with tourists. I walk onto the square. Immediately, a guard approaches me. “Ticket, ticket!” he says. I look around in surprise. Apparently, tourists need a ticket just to walk onto the square. The same ticket grants access to the madrassas. Apparently, I walked right past the ticket office. The officer points me to the booth behind me. I pay a relatively high fee, about five euros, for a ticket that grants access to Registan Square and the surrounding buildings. I ignore the extra ticket required for taking photos. Registan Square was designed in the 14th century by Timur Lenk. It is flanked on three sides by large madrassas. The oldest is the Ulugh Beg Madrassa from 1417, built by Timur’s grandson, Ulugh Beg. Directly opposite stands the Shir Dor Madrassa, built in 1619. The third and relatively newest is the Tilla Kari Madrassa, built in 1646. This one also functions as a mosque. I walk through the archway into the Ulugh Beg Madrassa, located on the left side of the square. I enter a beautiful courtyard. When I take off my shoes to enter the prayer hall at the back, I realize I’ve stepped into a carpet shop. A slight disappointment washes over me. The Tilla Kari Madrassa is a replica of the Ulugh Beg, enhanced with a beautiful golden dome. Beneath that dome is another mosque. The third madrassa, known as the “Temple of the Tiger,” has two large tigers depicted in the mosaic above its entrance. Next to the entrance, workers are busy restoring a dome. When I take a photo, they motion for me to show it. I climb the four-meter-high scaffolding and show them the picture. They then proudly show me the precise restoration work they’re doing.

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