Foto: Orangutan Sandra with her young (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
Indonesia - I’m getting ready for a long trek through Gunung Leuser National Park. This is one of the last places where orangutans still live in the wild. Until a few years ago, the orangutans were fed twice a day, but efforts are now being made to phase this out so the apes become more independent. Because of this, visiting a feeding station is no longer a guarantee for seeing an orangutan. That’s why I’m setting out on a long trek through the park. At breakfast, I meet Lilic. He’ll be guiding me through the jungle today. After about fifteen minutes, we reach the entrance gate of the national park. I look around to see if I can spot any animals—nothing. Lilic makes a calling sound. In the distance, I hear a call back. An orangutan? Lilic laughs. No, that’s another guide. Orangutans don’t respond to human calls, but they often move in the trees when they hear them. That’s how he hopes to spot them. Other guides and special spotters also use sound signals when they’ve found an orangutan. Soon, we’re called as well. Lilic rushes ahead, and I follow quickly through the undergrowth. My excitement builds. A bit further on, Lilic points upward. A young female orangutan is sitting in the treetops. Incredible! Even though my day is already made, I continue in search of more orangutans. The trail constantly goes up and down. Due to last night’s rain, the ground is slippery, and so are the tree trunks. I carefully descend to a small stream and then climb steeply up the other side. It’s oppressively hot in the forest. My T-shirt is soaked. At the feeding station, two orangutans are sitting. Food was placed here earlier today, and these two are hoping a guide might secretly leave a little extra. Unfortunately, that’s not allowed. But it does give me the chance to observe the orangutans up close. After leaving the feeding area, we take a break with some fruit—melon, banana, and passion fruit. Strangely, the apes don’t seem interested. However, a peacock wanders in to clean up the leftovers. Lilic tells me about an orangutan named Mina. She’s aggressive and demands food from the rangers. Lilic has been attacked by her before. When we spot movement in the trees ahead, he carefully checks which orangutan it is. The coast is clear—it’s Sandra, carrying a baby on her back. She’s just as curious about us as we are about her. She climbs down with her baby and comes within a few meters of me. She looks me straight in the eyes. Amazing! When Sandra climbs back into the tree, we continue. Suddenly, Lilic stops. Something is moving in the bushes. It’s Mina! She’s with two young orangutans. She has already spotted the ranger. Quickly, she climbs down. Lilic shows me where I can stand safely and take photos. Meanwhile, he pulls out a banana. Eagerly, Mina grabs the treat. She immediately holds out her hand for another. This could take a while. Lilic shouts “Sandra!” loudly and explains to me that Mina is afraid of Sandra. Behind me, the trees rustle—another orangutan is approaching. Mina gets nervous. She abandons the banana and rushes toward me. I duck out of the way. From where I was standing, she peers to see who’s coming. When she sees it really is Sandra, she takes off. Sandra calmly climbs down to eat the leftovers. I’m able to photograph her perfectly. After this thrilling encounter, I hike up to a high mountain peak. The trail is steep and slippery, and I quickly gain elevation. I can’t imagine doing this in a heavy rainstorm. Sometimes I have to grab onto roots to keep climbing. At the top, I take a short break. Lilic notices the trees moving. Is it Mina again? Just in case, I put my backpack back on. But it turns out to be Sandra. She’s following me. Mina hasn’t been idle either—she’s further ahead on the trail. Lilic signals me to wait. Carefully, Mina is distracted with bananas so I can pass safely. A tense moment.
At Borobudur
Indonesia - Today I’m going to visit the Borobudur temple, one of the seven new wonders of the world. It seems like one of the highlights of this trip. I leave Yogya by bus. It’s rush hour. Countless motorbikes weave through the city. I quickly understand why—a ...
Dolphins at Lovina
Indonesia - At six o’clock I meet Robert again on the beach. The sun has not yet risen, but a glow already hangs over the sea. I help Robert and the skipper push the fishing boat into the water. I step in to go dolphin watching. Fellow travelers who went yesterday ...
Mountain biking around Ubud
Indonesia - In front of the hotel, I meet Eddy, who will guide today’s cycling trip from Mount Batur back to Ubud. First, we take a bus northward. Even far outside the city, I see woodcarving workshops and stores—I can’t imagine many buyers still come here. ...
Sulfur carriers on the Ijen volcano
Indonesia - At four in the morning, my alarm goes off. Today I will climb the Ijen volcano, an active volcano north of Ketapang. Jeeps are waiting in front of the hotel. I join a rather quiet driver. He drives out of Ketapang heading north, taking about two hours ...
Sunrise at the Bromo volcano
Indonesia - Knock knock. “It’s three o’clock, Sir!” I’m woken for the sunrise at Mount Bromo. I quickly dress—Karin warned me it would be crowded today, as it’s Sunday and many locals come up for the sunrise. In the dark, I see a stream of headlights ...
The colorful lakes of the Kelimutu volcano
Indonesia - The Kelimutu volcano, located on the island of Flores in eastern Indonesia, is famous for one of the country's most fascinating natural phenomena: three crater lakes, each with a different, ever-changing color. These so-called “Lakes of Kelimutu” ...
The impressive Komodo dragon
Indonesia - The Komodo Islands, located in eastern Indonesia between Sumbawa and Flores, are among Southeast Asia’s most fascinating and rugged natural areas. They are part of Komodo National Park, established in 1980 to protect the unique flora and fauna, especially ...
The island of Gili Air
Indonesia - Gili Air is one of the three Gili Islands located off the northwest coast of Lombok, Indonesia. Together with Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno, it forms a tropical paradise in the Indonesian archipelago. Gili Air is the closest to Lombok and is known for ...
The Prambanan Temple near Yogyakarta
Indonesia - Today I leave Yogyakarta and head to the Hindu Prambanan temple, located 18 kilometers outside the city. This temple, from the same era as Borobudur, was severely damaged during the 2006 earthquake. The main temple, dedicated to Shiva, largely collapsed. ...
The Sendang Gile and Tiu Kelep waterfalls
Indonesia - The Rinjani Waterfall, often associated with the famous Sendang Gile and Tiu Kelep waterfalls, lies at the foot of majestic Mount Rinjani on Indonesia’s Lombok island. These are among the island’s most beautiful natural attractions, deeply connected ...
The traditional Bajawa villages on Flores
Indonesia - Deep in the mountainous interior of the Indonesian island of Flores lies Bajawa, a town known as the gateway to some of the most authentic and best-preserved traditional villages on the island. These villages, inhabited by the Ngada people, offer a rare ...
The view over Pulau Padar
Indonesia - The view over Pulau Padar – also known as Padar Island – is undoubtedly one of the most iconic and breathtaking panoramas in all of Indonesia. Located in Komodo National Park, between the larger islands of Komodo and Rinca, Padar is known for its ...
Washing elephants in Sumatra
Indonesia - My alarm wakes me just before seven. Today I’m going to wash elephants – an experience I’m really looking forward to. Suka greets me enthusiastically when I arrive at the restaurant. It’s about a half-hour walk to the elephant camp. The elephants ...