
Foto: The Sveta Jovan mountain monastery (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
North Macedonia - When we told the campsite owner yesterday that we wanted to visit the Sveta Jovan Monastery, he became immediately enthusiastic. "The road to Debar is so beautiful, with the lakes alongside it," he told us. He insisted we should definitely stop at the Rajcica women's monastery as well. “It’s just past Debar,” he explained. The mountainous road is indeed stunning. Sunlight filters through the trees. The water in the reservoir is mirror-smooth. The opposite shore is reflected perfectly in the water. Just past Debar, a sign indicates the way to the Rajcica Monastery. The path down to the monastery is steep. The door appears closed, even though a sign says we are welcome. When someone eventually comes outside, it turns out we simply needed to push the gate a bit harder. We’re allowed to view the small church of the monastery for the equivalent of two euros per person. Taking photos is not permitted. A girl opens the door of the little church just for us. Inside, the church is overwhelmingly decorated. Impressive! Beautiful frescoes cover all the walls and ceilings. A massive chandelier hangs above the altar, and behind it, a beautifully gilded iconostasis. The splendor in this tiny church is indescribable. The girl guiding us is not a nun herself. She volunteers here. She shows us a book with photos of beautifully gilded mitre crowns. The nuns in this monastery make these headdresses for the bishops. Impressed, we leave the monastery again, grateful to the campsite owner for the tip. About half an hour further on lies the monastery of Sveti Jovan Bigorski. It is said that in the eleventh century, an apparition of John the Baptist was seen at this location. The monastery has been expanded several times. During the communist period, it fell into disrepair, but thankfully the complex has since been restored. We enter the monastery grounds through the gate. A man comes rushing after us—tickets! We must pay an entrance fee. There are still thirty monks living in the monastery and about thirty volunteers. One of the volunteers shows us the small church. This church is just as beautiful and richly decorated as the previous one. It's impressive how so much splendor has been gathered in one place.



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